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FesslerUSA Names New Production Manager
Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania (January 27, 2012). FesslerUSA, an Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania based producer of USA made apparel announced the appointment of Charles Edmonds as its Production Manager and a member of its Executive Committee. “We are excited to have Chuck Edmonds join the management team at FesslerUSA. This year is pivotal for FesslerUSA as we shift into high gear and move out of the global economic recession,” said Bonnie Meck, FesslerUSA’s Chief Operating Officer and Chief Sustainability Officer.
“Chuck brings a depth of experience to the team,” Bonnie added, “reflecting our commitment to meeting the production needs of our expanding traditional customer base in the fashion and children’s markets, as well as our rapidly growing presence in the performance and technical markets.” Mr. Edmonds has a strong manufacturing and performance fabrics background, including 7 years at Performance Sports Apparel in Reading, Pennsylvania where he served in production and product development management and 21 years at J. E. Morgan Knitting Mills where he held a number of engineering and production positions. Morgan, of course, was a pioneer in thermal and baselayer garments since 1916, having developed and sold the famous Duofold® brand garments. Also, Chuck was a proud member of the 82nd Airborne division of the United States Army.
Walter Meck, FesslerUSA’s CEO said “The past few years have been a real challenge for many apparel manufacturers. The key to FesslerUSA’s future has been our ability to adapt to changes in the retail markets and shifts in retail sourcing strategies. Our small-lot, quick-turn, vertical full-package strategy has perfectly positioned us for this emerging new economy.” FesslerUSA is a leading producer of exclusively “Made in The USA” quality knit fabrics and apparel, providing design and vertical production services to a number of markets including fashion contemporary, women’s, men’s, infants and children’s, as well as some technical and outdoor markets including performance, baselayer and activewear. Continuously operating and employing Americans for over 112 years, its products are made in Pennsylvania and shipped globally. More information on FesslerUSA can be found at www.FesslerUSA.com.
FesslerUSA: Onshore, On Time
As domestic sourcing gets another look, circular knitter and apparel manufacturer FesslerUSA provides unique, value-added services while focusing on sustainability.
By: Sarah C. Thomasson, Associate Editor of Textile World
"Made in the USA" is a mantra increasingly heard in the textile and apparel industry — signaling a turning of the tide that has sent so much sourcing offshore. Since its founding 111 years ago, private-label knitwear and fabric manufacturer FesslerUSA has held fast to that mantra.
The company's beginnings trace back to 1900, when Walter Meck, grandfather of current CEO Walter Meck, left the family farm and founded Meck & Co., a cotton underwear manufacturer in the Pennsylvania Dutch river port of Schuylkill Haven. After surviving two world wars, a depression and two recessions, the company was sold in 1960 by Walter's son, Charles, to H.H. Fessler Knitting Co. In 1994, the Meck family reacquired the company and restructured it with the goal of keeping manufacturing in the United States.
Today, FesslerUSA remains a family-owned and -operated business, led by CEO Walter Meck; COO and Chief Sustainability Officer Bonnie Meck, Walter's wife; and their son, Brian, who serves as vice president of sales and marketing. The company is a full-package supplier of knitted fabrics and apparel for more than 100 brands and retailers, producing more than 100,000 garments a week at its 150,000-square-foot Deer Lake facility — a state-of-the-art, vertically integrated manufacturing plant in Orwigsburg, Pa. FesslerUSA also runs a sewing facility in Reading, Pa.; and has a showroom in New York City where it meets with customers.
Vertically Integrated Manufacturing
FesslerUSA's ability to produce its own fabric is one aspect that sets it apart from other apparel manufacturers remaining in the United States. "We made a decision very early on to be different from everyone else by being vertical and having fabric production. That's been key to our success and our ability to get through the economic downturn," said Walter Meck.
A custom software program drives the entire manufacturing process. The company does all of its design services, knitting, cutting, sewing, folding, packing and final processing in-house. Dyeing and finishing is done by a local dyer with whom the company has done business for more than 40 years.
Yarn is purchased primarily from domestic manufacturers, including Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, Ga.; Parkdale Mills Inc., Gastonia, N.C.; Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C.; and RadiciSpandex Corp., Gastonia, N.C. Trims come from Key Manufacturing Textiles, Allentown, Pa., a FesslerUSA subsidiary that also produces trims for 40 other manufacturers. Laces and elastics come mostly from overseas sources, as there aren't many U.S. manufacturers.
"As a domestic manufacturer, we have a big challenge from a supply chain perspective to be able to offer all the different types of dyed-to-match trims and laces, zippers, and buttons that our overseas competitors have access to in their local marketplace," said Brian Meck. "There are parts of a garment we still need to import, or we need to work within the limitations of what is available domestically."
Knitting is done on Vanguard and Monarch circular knitting machines. Brian Meck said that while knitting technology hasn't changed much, the machinery has become more efficient, and FesslerUSA has switched from coarser-gauge to finer-gauge machines. Pattern-making, marker-making and spreading and cutting equipment is supplied by Gerber Technology.
Focus On Fabric
FesslerUSA knits a range of fabrics in various yarn qualities, including rib, jersey, interlock, piqué, pointelle, thermal, heather and terry. The company runs a lot of Supima®, Supima/MicroModal® and Supima/MicroTencel® blends; 100-percent MicroModal and MicroTencel; and polyester/rayon blends. Currently, there is a lot of interest in wool fabrics and blends. The company recently introduced Tencel®/cashmere, and it is developing several new fabrics including an alpaca/wool blend.
"We've also added flat bed knitting and have developed a new collection of piqué fabrics so we can make polo shirts with fashion colors and welts," Brian said. "And we have quite a few stretch performance and baselayer fabrics in different stages of development."
The company offers more than 400 fabrics, and only 10 to 15 percent of production involves use of fabrics customers might find from another supplier. In addition, FesslerUSA has been designing its own garments for about 10 years. Customers use the styles as is or make adjustments and add them to their lines.
The company exports less than 5 percent of its production, and supplies the rest domestically to brands and retailers mostly in the women's and children's fashion market, but also in the outdoor and performance wear market. A major core customer is Nordstrom, whose relationship with FesslerUSA spans more than 10 years. Michael Stars has been a customer for well over 20 years. Walter said good brands such as their largest and core customers don't change much. Smaller or startup brands may shift their product lines or designs and move away from what FesslerUSA offers, but then, the company will pick up a new brand.
Value-Added Services
While FesslerUSA's customers range from small startups to high-end department stores, all need some level of design support. The company's Design Support Services team takes a customer's creative design request through the entire costing and sampling process, from pattern-making, garment-engineering and sewing through quality-testing, and, finally, through fits and revisions leading up to final approval and production. Brian noted that expectations of accuracy and quality for sampling, and especially turn times, have changed dramatically over the past five to 10 years. "People seem to be waiting closer to their ship dates and in-store dates to submit sample requests; or they've come to know we can turn samples quickly and fill orders if needed. We get a lot of sample requests that we need to turn in two to three days, whereas our average sample turn time used to be two to three weeks." Those shorter lead times are an advantage gained from working with a domestic supplier, Brian emphasized, because it allows customers to quickly replenish styles within season.
FesslerUSA also offers customer service and production planning services to help customers create and manage their design and production time and action calendars. "Helping our customers stay on time and on schedule is a big part of the service we provide. Our customers save a lot of time and money not having to hire a production team to manage and oversee the process."
A growing segment of FesslerUSA's business comes through its Design Consulting Services, which assists newer brands or startups that have ideas of something they want to bring to market, but no production knowledge or expertise. The company assigns a team of people who, for a fee, help with fabric and style development, brand strategy planning, financial planning and supply chain development.
FesslerUSA also offers a range of value-added services post-production such as washing, screen printing, transfer printing, pressing, bagging and tagging. "Pretty much anything that can be done to a garment, we provide as part of our production process," Brian said.
The Sustainable Vision
FesslerUSA's sustainability program began several years ago, with two coinciding events: The company began making garments from organic cotton and sustainable fibers, and it purchased the Deer Lake building, which needed renovations.
"When we bought the building, it was very dark and dingy and had old, very inefficient fluorescent lighting," Bonnie Meck said. The company began renovating the building phase by phase, replacing fluorescent bulbs with T5 and T8 lighting and painting the walls using highly reflective, low-volatile-organic-compound paint, to reduce the amount of lumens needed to provide light.
"But we soon learned that there was more to sustainability than organic cotton and energy-efficient lighting," Bonnie said. "It was about the entire carbon footprint — having a factory that sustainably minimizes electricity usage; responsibly reducing, then recycling our manufacturing byproducts; minimizing the distance that garments move; using low-impact dyes and sustainably produced fibers."
The company invested in variable speed drives to lower its peak electricity usage and utility costs. "We did that long before we put the solar power system in, because even though we knew we were going to be generating electricity from the sun, we still wanted to be using less energy overall," Bonnie said.
FesslerUSA recently completed its solar power generation system, which consists of more than 1,600 solar panels covering about half of the facility's roof. The 450-kilowatt system will generate more than 540,000 kilowatt hours of electricity per year — enough to power 35 homes — and will provide half to two-thirds of the facility's electricity needs. A live Web-based monitoring system is broadcast on a large flat-screen TV in the middle of the offices to increase employee awareness of the energy savings being accomplished.
One future goal is to convert the company's hot water system from electric to solar thermal power, which Bonnie anticipates will make a difference in the company's energy usage. "When we started, it wasn't with the goal of what the return on investment would be — but it does help to keep us globally competitive. Most sustainability translates to the bottom line," she said.
The next project in the works involves redoing the office space on a low-carbon basis using solar tubes and lighting that adjusts according to outside sunlight. Bonnie said the company actively seeks ways to reuse where it can, such as installing gently used cubicles instead of purchasing new ones. Although neither the factory nor the office space are fancy, Walter said, "we want them to make a statement and reflect our culture and the way we do business: simple, elegant, with a low-carbon footprint."
The Mecks have received extremely positive customer response to their sustainability efforts - especially regarding the solar power system, which "makes them aware of the importance of their carbon footprint, because as energy costs go up, the size of that footprint will directly affect both brands' and retailers' competitiveness," Walter said. And, as Bonnie stressed, "Most of what we do never leaves the continental United States in terms of the supply chain. When we buy yarn spun in Georgia with cotton grown in California, Texas or Arizona, and we bring that yarn to Pennsylvania, and then we knit the fabric and do everything here under one roof, and then we ship those garments to distribution centers all over the United States, there's no way to compare that to the carbon footprint of something you're bringing in from China."
A Culture Of Sustainability
When the company implemented its sustainability plan, Bonnie said, "we learned that sustainability is a journey, not a destination — a journey that requires everyone to be on board — from every employee, to vendors, and, most importantly, our customers. As a family and a business, we chose to personalize and adopt the pursuit of sustainability for FesslerUSA."
The company's volunteer employee Sustainability Team has helped develop corporate initiatives including a sustainability Bulletin Board; a Sustainability Corner in each of the company's newsletters; a Swap Shop for employees to swap gently used clothing; a lending library for exchanging books; and coupon boxes in the lunchrooms. Sustainability Awards are given to employees who go above and beyond expectations.
"We are trying to create that spirit in our employees, even encouraging them to be more sustainable in their personal lives," Bonnie said. "We want them to be proud and involved in what we're doing. It takes time, but it becomes a thought process, a way of life."
Bonnie noted that sustainability awareness has increased significantly in the apparel industry in the last few years. When FesslerUSA began the process, a few companies in the industry that were further along in the journey were willing to share their advice and experience. "I found that to be very refreshing, because we're in a very competitive industry where people typically don't share information," she said. "I want to be generous with our knowledge so we can keep promoting the culture of sustainability."
It's All In The Family
Although FesslerUSA has built a reputation as a family-owned and operated business, Walter emphasizes that "when we say 'family,' we mean more than just immediate family; I consider every one of my employees to be part of my family. We think the key to running a successful business is not just making money, but making sure the needs of our employees — our family — are being met. Employee welfare is a very important part of sustaining a company."
The company's health and wellness committee implements various initiatives to encourage its 150 employees to live a healthy lifestyle. Initiatives have included a contest in which pedometers were given out to see who walked the most steps; weight-loss competitions; smoking cessation programs; and an annual health fair that offers skin cancer testing, chair massages, blood pressure checks, and healthy lunches supplied by local vendors.
The committee currently is working on a project to put a fitness trail around the building's perimeter. Naturally, to stay in line with its focus on reuse, the sustainability committee is looking for a way to make the markers out of something recycled from the factory.
All About Adaptation
In order to survive, a company must be flexible, Walter said. "I tell our people, the one thing I can promise them is constant change. We continually look for opportunities — whether it's in a different market, looking at different brands, acquiring a brand, or partnering with a retailer — we are always actively open to considering alternatives."
In the past, most if not all of FesslerUSA's fabric production was used for garments, but the company recently started to sell fabric directly to customers. "That has become one of our most rapidly growing segments," Walter said. "Another thing we did during the downturn was ask how else we could use our facility for niches inside or outside the apparel market."
One such niche is the outdoor performance wear market, which is growing, is custom, and fits right into FesslerUSA's "sweet spot," as Walter said. "We've even taken on a few customers that do some very unusual things, but that our equipment is uniquely set up to produce, such as non-apparel items in the medical industry.
"To be a U.S. vertical apparel manufacturer, you have to recognize that you can't compete with China on the lowest landed cost and you can't compete at the big-box store level," Walter said. "Where we compete is when a customer, retailer or brand needs something more, something they can't get overseas; and when they understand the value of taking time, overhead and/or carbon footprint out of the sourcing cycle."
While the company was affected by the recent economic downturn and lost customers that couldn't survive or decided the grass is greener in China, Walter said, "we've seen some come back, who decided the service we provide is more important than the slight premium in cost that comes from being Made in the USA."
Walter also said that people have finally adjusted to the fact that the market has contracted. "After almost two years of ordering on a trial-and-error basis, customers are more confident in placing purchases six months out. The uncertainty is slowly but clearly going away, and the market has adjusted to the new realities of the economy."
Though competing as a U.S. manufacturer in the global marketplace certainly has its challenges, Walter said FesslerUSA receives a lot of support from retailers and other suppliers who serve the apparel industry. "Everyone wants to see apparel Made in the USA, and the support that we receive from all sides is not only refreshing, but it keeps us focused and keeps us from giving up."
"We're constantly moving forward, looking to do better, remaining a leader in our industry," Bonnie said, "and that's the best we can do — keep moving along that path."
"Life is adapting to the situation," Walter added. "We've adapted, and we'll continue to adapt."
September/October 2011
The Case Against Shifting Production To China; Hidden Costs And Growing Risks Make U.S. Attractive For Manufacturing
By Richard McCormack
Rising costs in China along with dozens of hidden costs are making it more economical to either keep manufacturing in the United States or bring it back from China, according to research into the true costs of outsourcing.
Companies are not adequately accounting for dozens of hidden costs and growing risks associated with outsourcing production to China, according to David Meeker of Neoteric Product Development based in Acton, Mass., and a lecturer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. When companies tally all of the costs of offshore outsourcing and adopt new design techniques for streamlining manufacturing, the cost advantage of moving production to China disappears.
"If you look at all the costs and total them up and you do a really good job of doing design, the chances are you can manufacture in the United States just as competitively and with a lot less risk and a lot less lead time," says Meeker. "You have more control over what you are doing."
Companies are mesmerized by low labor costs and by low-ball quotes from Chinese suppliers for parts and components as well as turnkey manufacturing. "People in business say, 'Wow, look at this price!' But that's all they look at," says Meeker. "They don't consider the costs of having a quality problem and having to send someone over there to fix it, or opening an office there, or the costs when the container ship arrives after a rough trip on the ocean and the four weeks it takes to get here," he says.
There are high quality manufacturers in China now, "but you pay a premium to get them and the question is, is that premium that much lower than what you can find in the states?" Meeker asks.
In a research paper on the subject presented at a recent meeting of Boothroyd Dewhurst's Design for Manufacture and Assembly International Forum in Providence, R.I., Meeker outlines many of the additional and hidden costs involved in shifting production to China. They find that they add up to 24 percent of the total product price, a conservative number that "does not include provisions for many of the risks and intangible costs that relate to specific products," he says.
Shipping and logistics adds 17 percent; finding a viable Chinese vendor adds 1 percent; quality issues add 4 percent; travel and communications add 1 percent and "all others" add another 1 percent to the total price of a product manufactured offshore.
In a case study comparing costs in the United States and China, Meeker and his colleague Jay Mortenson found that it is cheaper by 8 percent to produce a current design in China. There are substantial savings associated with purchased parts from China that include direct labor (79 percent savings versus U.S. labor rates), indirect labor and salaries (61 percent savings), benefits (75 percent savings), overhead (40 percent savings) and selling, general and administrative (SG&A) (11 percent savings).
When adding logistics to the China price, the cost advantage of producing in China shrinks to 8 percent: $13.85 for a case-study product made in China versus $14.99 in the United States.
But when design for manufacturing and assembly (DFMA) software is applied to the same product, the China advantage vanishes. The China cost declines to $9.79 versus the U.S.-made product at $9.47.
"My real message is if you are serious about moving your plant, you need to sit down and truly understand all of the costs and look at the trends of where all of the costs are going," which are all up, says Meeker.
Labor rates and benefit packages in China are increasing. Shipping rates, taxes, customs services and duties are increasing. The value of foreign currencies is appreciating, making overseas production less profitable. There are more regulations and bureaucracies engaged in foreign direct investment with new sets of rules. Companies are being required to share their most prized asset: their intellectual property. Most companies don't know how to write contracts in Chinese, and those contracts are not upheld in Chinese courts. High worker turnover increases training costs and reduces quality, with some facilities experiencing between 40 percent and 60 percent yearly turnover in staff. Human rights and ethical lapses can ruin a company's reputation.
"Costs are often missed because they are not allocated to product costs," says Meeker. "Often costs are paid for by the corporation from various budgets," he writes in his research paper. Inspection, supplier management and customs compliance, expedited shipments, onsite and remote supplier management, supplier development and problem resolution, higher utility costs, costs for skilled maintenance, steep learning curves and training, higher quality control systems and regulatory compliance are only some of the costs that are not tallied by companies.
"Focusing on the cost reduction of individual parts may obscure the cost reductions from the entire product design," according to Meeker. "Logistics and customs costs may eliminate the labor cost savings. Elimination of wasted material, requiring close control of the manufacturing process may prove elusive at offshore facilities."
Some products are simply not good to produce offshore -- those made with highly automated precision processes; those that are bulky and heavy; products that require flexible scheduling; and products that undergo many revisions, causing an increase in quality failures.
Added to these factors are numerous risks that are often ignored: complying with changing customs regulations, fines and penalties; geographic risks from natural disasters; logistical risks such as the availability of shipping and port capacity, clearing times and losses in transportation; poor infrastructure that leads to delays and quality issues; judicial, political and social instability; and the growing problem of contract manufacturers using the same equipment to make exact replicas for competitors.
Unfortunately, it is difficult to get companies to describe their travails in outsourcing their production to China, says Meeker. As a result, there are few case studies describing how things have gone wrong.
In his presentations at industry conferences describing the high cost of moving to China, Meeker has had dozens of executives approach him afterwards saying " 'It's not what it's cracked up to be,' " he says. "When you look at all of the data and you put the bottom line to a project and look at the cost, it's not as attractive as it was. It does not make sense to be over there. This is a classic story of nobody wants to admit their own mistakes in public. But the tide is turning. I have a giant pile of press clippings with lots of companies saying they are bringing their production back. They went overseas and got burned with lots of problems and now they want to understand how they can bring it back."
Fortunately, there are design for manufacturing and assembly software systems that can give American manufacturers a cost advantage over Chinese production, he adds.
Meeker can be reached at meeker@mit.edu.
FesslerUSA Celebrates Completion of Solar Project
Orwigsburg, PA (August 9, 2011) – FesslerUSA, an Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania company that provides design services and manufactures knit fabric, apparel, and consumer products, today celebrated the completion of a 450 kW photovoltaic solar power generation system, mounted on the roof of its Deer Lake vertical manufacturing facility. The system consists of over 1,600 solar panels covering about half of the facility’s roof. It will generate about 450,000 kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity per year, which is enough to power 35 homes per year, and will provide over half of the facility’s current energy usage. According to Ira Walton, Solar Project Manager, “In the short time we have been operational, FesslerUSA has already prevented almost 21 tons of CO2, which is equivalent to over 525 trees or saving over 2,400 gallons of gas”. Bonnie Meck, FesslerUSA’s Chief Operating and Sustainability Officer said, “We are so excited about the completion of this project – it is a major step forward for Made in USA sustainable manufacturing.” FesslerUSA is one of the larger manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania to run the majority of its operations on solar power, significantly reducing the Company’s energy costs, increasing the Company’s competitiveness in today’s global economy, and dramatically reducing
its carbon footprint. Dignitaries in attendance today included State Senator Dave Argall, Schuylkill County Commissioners Mantura Gallagher and Frank Staudemeier, Congressman Tim Holden, State Representatives Jerry Knowles and Mike Tobash, among many others. “A number of Southern Schuylkill businesses supported our celebration today – representing almost 400 Schuylkill County jobs,” added Walter Meck, FesslerUSA’s CEO. “We appreciate their friendship and support, as we all share a common goal of keeping small businesses thriving in our communities.” Food and refreshments for the ribbon-cutting celebration were provided by the Brick House Grill, Guers Dairy, Healthy Habits Market, Madeline’s Restaurant, The Oak Hill Inn and Philly Pretzel. FesslerUSA is a leading producer of exclusively American made quality knit fabrics, apparel, and consumer products. Continuously operating and employing Pennsylvanians for over 111 years, its products are made in Pennsylvania and shipped globally. More information on FesslerUSA can be found at www.FesslerUSA.com.
  Check out our Solar Production LIVE
FESSLERUSA BEGINS SOLAR PROJECT
Orwigsburg, PA (March 24, 2011) – FesslerUSA, an Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania based company that provides design services and manufactures apparel, today announced the commencement of its project to install a 450 kW photovoltaic solar power generation system, which will be mounted on the roof of its Deer Lake manufacturing facility. Roof improvements began this week in preparation for the installation of the 1,600 solar panels that will cover about half of the facility’s roof. The roof work will provide a solid base for the roof mounted photovoltaic system and includes the addition of extra insulation in order reduce energy needs. Installation of the solar panels will begin in early April, and the system is expected to be operational by June 2011. The solar system will generate about 450,000 kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity per year, which is enough to power 35 homes per year, and will provide about half of the facility’s current energy usage. According to Bonnie Meck, FesslerUSA’s Chief Sustainability Officer, “The system will save over 300 tons of CO2 each year – think of it as reducing the CO2 emissions generated by the consumption of 35,000 gallons of gasoline or eliminating the greenhouse gas emissions from 61 passenger vehicles.” FesslerUSA will be one of the first manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania to run largely on solar power, significantly reducing the Company’s energy costs and increasing the Company’s competitiveness in today’s global economy. “We have been committed to manufacturing in Pennsylvania since 1900,” added Walter Meck, FesslerUSA’s CEO. “We are supported by a great team of employees and contractors. For them, we will find a way to remain in Pennsylvania.” FesslerUSA is a leading producer of exclusively American made quality knitwear and fabrics. Continuously operating and employing Pennsylvanians for over 111 years, its products are made in Pennsylvania and shipped globally. More information on FesslerUSA can be found at www.FesslerUSA.com.
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FesslerUSA
H.H. Fessler Knitting Co., Inc.
PO Box 215, 1506 Centre Turnpike, Orwigsburg, PA 17961 P: 570-366-0531 F: 570-366-8947
FesslerUSA: A Sustainable Vision Embraced
Location: http://www.aapnetwork.net/aapmembers/FesslerUSA/Feature-Story.cfm
Introduction
The American Apparel Producers Network (AAPN) is actually a misnomer. It isn’t just American and it isn’t just apparel manufacturers (although its roots were American apparel contractors), instead the reach of its members is broad and deep from suppliers that produce every component that goes into clothing to the companies that make the final product and members that then ship it to the destinations. As Mike Todaro, Managing Director of the AAPN often points out, the AAPN is actually a supply chain that represents every single component and production step involved in getting a garment designed, developed, made and shipped, from the field or the synthetic materials manufacturer to the consumer. At its annual meeting, held in Miami Beach a few months ago, the AAPN explored the theme of Sustainability in the apparel supply chain. The response from the members and guests was amazement as members shared what they are doing to reverse some of the environmental abuses of the past and, in many cases, creating a better, safer, work environment for their employees. This is the first in a series of articles that outlines the steps some AAPN members have taken to make their world a better, more sustainable, place for the current and future generations.
FesslerUSA: Background
FesslerUSA started life in 1900 when the current owner’s grandfather got his start knitting undershirts for the US military in the Meck Knitting facilities. Meck Knitting was sold to H.H. Fessler Knitting Co. Inc, in the 1960’s but in 1994 the current generation of the Meck siblings, reacquired Meck Knitting, and H.H.Fessler Knitting Co., Inc., with the goal of continuing to manufacture in the United States. Even though many knitters and apparel manufacturers had moved offshore or closed their doors, unable to compete against low price imports. Today, Walter and Bonnie, along with their son Brian, operate FesslerUSA , which currently employs about 150 people. Bonnie, Chief Operating Officer, who also has the role of Chief Sustainability Officer feels the FesslerUSA employees, over a third of whom have been with the company for over 10 years, are their greatest assets. Consequently, while the company has a comprehensive sustainability program, which includes many initiatives to contribute to improved environmental conditions, caring for its people is the company’s #1 goal. This sentiment is independently verified by Walter Meck - referred to as “The Grand Poo-bah”, as posted on his office door. While the company takes itself very seriously, they also have a calm familiarity with one another and a good sense of humor.
The classic A-shirt style and ribbed fabric sold as undershirts to the US Army by Meck Knitting is still being produced in modern times by FesslerUSA. Except today it is more likely to be worn by a trend focused client in fashion colors, rather than by a soldier shipping out. And, of course, the construction is more of a performance rib in a super soft cotton modal blend. Starting with yarn in one end of the building and finishing with packaged goods in the other end, FesslerUSA has demonstrated flexibility in manufacturing and partnering with their brand and retail clients to react quickly to opportunities in the market. Working with other companies in the area they provide a vertical one-stop shop for knitting, fabric or garment dyeing plus roller and screen-printing services. FesslerUSA also offers custom knit fabric design as well as a library of over 300 unique fabrics, product development and design support services as well as assistance for their clients in developing the ideal blended sourcing strategy to maximize their returns and minimize risks.
Sustainability in Manufacturing
Since reacquiring the company in 1994, the Meck family has constantly sought to improve flexibility in manufacturing in order to improve its competitive position against imports. Efficiency and flexibility have certainly become part of the Sustainability equation. The company’s manufacturing operations used to be in five locations but they consolidated into their current 152,000 square foot space in Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania in 2007. The consolidated facility permits them to operate more efficiently and has eliminated transportation costs between facilities, contributing to environmental sustainability.
Second only to the company’s commitment to their employees is their long-term commitment to relationships with their partners (aka “suppliers” in some less forward thinking operations), many of whom are AAPN members. Good supply chain partners are essential to the high quality of their products and this simultaneously serves to reduce the carbon footprint of the products since many of the partners still manufacture in the US.
Buhler Quality Yarns, a Swiss owned company with a US headquarters and manufacturing facilities in Jefferson, GA, is a long-term partner of FesslerUSA. The company spins Supima® cotton yarn known for its softness, much of which is made from cotton grown in California. FesslerUSA also knits fabric with organic cotton, polyester, Modal®, Micro Tencel®, Cashmere Tencel®, Supima Micro Tencel®, and rayon from bamboo yarns.
A truly local partner, Norman Shatz Co USA, is a Pennsylvania based supplier of labels and trims. Asheboro Elastics provides elastics. RadiciSpandex supplies all of the spandex yarn used by FesslerUSA. Avery Dennison, a company with facilities across the US, as well as globally, is a provider of many of the branded labels that FesslerUSA sews into products. Antex Knitting and Swisstex Direct in LA provide some of the fabrics that FesslerUSA doesn’t produce. Testing and performance verification for their fabrics and finished garments has been provided by Bureau Veritas in their Taunton, MA labs. Charles Gilbert Associates, Cotton Incorporated and TC2 have provided consulting expertise.
Many of these suppliers of textile products are global companies. Some were founded in the US, and some opened operations in the US based on demand from their customers. All are providing jobs to “locals” and are essential players in the supply chain and through their “cluster” they help to reduce the carbon footprint of the products manufactured. They collaborate and cooperate because it is good business and they try to be good citizens in being “kind to the world.”
These are just some of the partners that help to make FesslerUSA such a unique and eco-friendly business.
Facility Sustainability
When FesslerUSA consolidated operations, they moved into an older building that previously manufactured magic markers. Pre-renovation, the building was anything but the bright and “magical” place you imagined those markers being made in as a child. Intelligent and efficient renovation strategies, such as dropping energy efficient light fixtures in a windowless hallway and application of highly reflective non-VOC paint half way up the walls (by employee volunteers over a weekend) to meet the level to which the lights were lowered, resulted in a more efficient and well lit hallway. Motion lights turn on when triggered, but even in the “dark” the walls reflect a lot of ambient light. By using non-VOC paint, the hallway required far less ventilation to dry the paint, and no respirators were needed during its application.
Speaking of breathing, it’s an incredibly easy thing to do in FesslerUSA’s knitting rooms. With good temperature and moisture control there is very little airborne fiber. The investment in a couple of Alandale air cleaners and consistent vacuuming leaves little fiber in the air, on lamps or clinging to machinery. More importantly, workers don’t need to wear uncomfortable and stuffy face masks or respirators, making their work days much more pleasant than in many other knitting facilities. Yarn is stored at one end of the knitting area, within easy reach of the machinery. They keep some inventory in stock, but like everyone in the industry are closely watching cotton prices and keeping track of the longer lead times for yarn that have resulted from a mix of “wait and see” tactics from retailers, lean inventories across the supply chain, and speculation in global markets.
To further drive efficiency and lower costs FesslerUSA installed a new HVAC system throughout the building. Part of the justification for this large, and less obvious investment, was to replace the high energy usage and heat exhaustion of the old system. The new system controls the climate more effectively and does it using less energy than the old one. They opted for a distribution system made from plastic tubing with cut out holes over the traditional steel duct work. The duct in the new system distributes air along the full length, versus just in certain output areas. The savings in material cost allows more ductwork to be run into the middle of the large spaces, to more evenly supply conditioned air. The former system was only able to address the perimeter of the large spaces.
FesslerUSA invested in new lighting fixtures that utilize T-5 bulbs throughout the facility. By placing new, more efficient light fixtures in areas, such as over workstations and thoroughfares, quality of light is improved. By using motion sensors, the use of energy is further reduced.
FesslerUSA has been working for 3 years to install a large solar system on its roof which will eventually provide the majority of their electrical power. The funding is in place, but plans were put on hold during the recent recession.
Summary
By providing unique and value-add services, FesslerUSA keeps evolving and improving, and is setting the stage for the next generations of Mecks. Too many manufacturing companies are unconcerned about their impacts on the planet, both environmentally and socially. This is obviously not true of FesslerUSA where a lot of thoughtful planning has gone into every aspect of improving their operating efficiency and in simultaneously improving their product’s carbon footprint and the environment for their employees and their “neighbors.”
FesslerUSA Introduces New Premium Fashion Knit Fabrics
Contact: Brian Meck
www.fesslerusa.com
(570) 366-0531, #544
Orwigsburg, PA (April 15, 2010) FesslerUSA a leading manufacturer of quality knitwear has just introduced several new jersey, rib and thermal fabrications designed for the contemporary fashion market including MicroTENCEL®, Supima® MicroTENCEL®, and Tencel® /Cashmere.
MicroTENCEL®
Lenzing MicroTENCEL® is spun from sustainable fibers processed in a “Close Loop” system recognized as safe and sustainable. Fabrics made with MicroTENCEL® are stable, durable, soft and silky and yet provides desirable functionalities not present in other cellulose fibers. MicroTENCEL® naturally inhibits the growth of bacteria and features moisture transfer performance. Due to the high dimensional stability in dry and wet state, fabrics from US Tencel™ Micro are ideal wherever a superior quality is most important.
Supima® MicroTENCEL
Supima® MicroTENCEL® fabrics combine the properties of Lenzing MicroTENCEL® with extra long staple Supima® cotton. Lenzing MicroTENCEL® is made from sustainable fibers processed in a “Close Loop” system recognized as safe and sustainable. Fabrics made with this optimal blend of MicroTENCEL® and Supima® combed cotton are stable, durable, soft and silky and yet provides desirable functionalities not present in other cellulose fibers. These fabrics have a soft and supple hand, a silky sheen, and excellent dimensional stability.
Tencel® Cashmere
Tencel® Cashmere fabrics combine all the benefits of Tencel® with the luxury of Cashmere. Lenzing Tencel® is made from sustainable fibers processed in a “Close Loop” system recognized as safe and sustainable. Fabrics made with Tencel® Cashmere are soft, durable, breathable and fashionable.
Please contact us today at (570) 366-0531 (dial 0 and ask for sales) for swatches and additional information.
FesslerUSA is a leading producer of exclusively American made quality knitwear and fabrics. Their products are made in Pennsylvania and shipped globally. They have been continuous operation for 110 years. For more information on FesslerUSA check out their website at www.fesslerusa.com .
FesslerUSA named in Top 10 List by Fast Company
Location: http://www.fastcompany.com/mic/2010/industry/most-innovative-fashion-companies
Fast Company, one of the leading magazines on innovative companies, has named FesslerUSA to it's Top 10 Fashion Industry List. Go to http://www.fastcompany.com/mic/2010/industry/most-innovative-fashion-companies for the entire top 10 list.
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